ON THE MOUNTAIN

Averell Harriman who owned the Union Pacific Railroad put Count Felix Schaffgotsch (whoever the hell he was) on the train and told him to find the best place in the US for a ski resort. Sun Valley was his choice. The world's first chairlift was subsequently designed and constructed here in '39 using techniques for loading bananas onto boats. More recently, it's been no accident that both US downhill ski queen Picabo Street and current snowboard world champion Sandra Van Ert grew up racing on this mountain.
Bald Mountain (affectionately known as Baldy) has a near perfect steep gradient from peak to base. With a 3400 foot vertical drop and 7 high speed Dopplemayr quads, Baldy can wear out strong legs fast. It may not get as much snow as some of it's neighbors, but when it has fresh snow around you get quality turns from top to bottom with no flats to get stuck on and bowls that beg you to go full throttle. Big banked runs that are groomed to perfection make for smiles even if it hasn't snowed in weeks. A strong carving contingent can happily attest to this.
Dollar Mountain which lies close to the Sun Valley Lodge is a beginner hill but offers some fresh tracks several days after a storm.

SNOW CONDITIONS

The best part about Baldy is that it has a wide variety of exposures. Although it's 250 inches (seven meters) of natural snow a year doesn't exactly make Sun Valley a powder mecca, it's cold climate and mostly northern exposure preserves what snow it gets. Add to this the worlds largest automated snowmaking system and you get snow that is consistently good. Though most faces north and east it has a lot of southern faces, especially on the upper mountain, which turn to corn early in the day making for great spring conditions.

BACK-COUNTRY OPTIONS

Sun Valley Helis operate a friendly heli-guide service. Prices are based on how many vertical feet are clocked up. They fly in the ranges behind Baldy and can always access the goods. Tel: 1-208-622-7936 or 1-800-872-3108.
Galena Summit which is about 20 miles (32 kilometers) north of Ketchum and gets about twice the snowfall is full of great back-country terrain. Some of this is quite benign but some is pretty hairy. Always check with the avalanche hotline 1-208-788-1200 ext.8027 to minimize your risk.
Soldier Mountain, owned by Bruce Willis offers day cat skiing adventures for reasonable prices.

FREERIDERS

Cruising abounds, there's long runs and trees that stay good long after the snow falls. If you hit Sun Valley on a powder day head immediately to the bowls which are accessed from the top of the Lookout or Challenger chair. To get good freshies go early as locals will devour the soft stuff like piranhas.
Some good tree powder stashes lie between Limelight and Picabo Street and between Picabo Street and Flying Squirrel, also look off of Fire Trail.
The Board Ranch side, to the left of International (out of ski area boundary) is loaded with acres of tree shots. To avoid getting lost and having to hitchhike home, go with someone who knows the area as a lot of hazards exist.

FREESTYLERS

The freestyle scene in Sun Valley is pretty much the silent majority. Silent because most of the real good freestyle stuff lies off the major runs. There are some radical cat track hits for large air. Look for them at the top of Canyon, along Warm Springs and the top of Olympic. I-80 is a steep cat track that has about a mile of hits on the uphill wall. Every snowgun on the groomed runs builds into a hit which is great for learning technical tricks, especially when there's about 50 of them on a top to bottom run.

CARVERS

Sun Valley is an unreal mountain for carving due to the endless, perfectly groomed black diamonds. Warm Springs and Mid River offer big banked gullies that they groom way up the walls. They ride like a roller coaster. Take care as many groomed runs are speed control areas. For an unrestricted highway, hit Limelight when it's groomed or Upper Warm Springs to Flying Squirrel for a top to bottom streak down the hill.

MOUNTAIN FOOD

Seattle Ridge, Warm Springs and River Run Lodges all offer great food in ridiculously ritzy lodges. To save money for important things like beer, a plate of potatoes will fill you up or get 3 rolls for a dollar and make them into a meal with some 4 star condiments.
The base of Warm Springs has 2 local favorites. If you can stomach hot dogs, Irvings Red Hots makes a mean one with the works and chips for 2 dollars. Apples Bar and Grill has decent prices on sandwiches, burgers, french fries and apres-ski beers for a buck.

HAZARDS AND RULES

Be mindful of the slow skiing areas as the patrol will pull your pass for speeding or catching air. Skiing out of bounds is permitted since it is all US Forest Service land, but be forewarned that a patrol service is not provided. If you get hurt in the back-country, you will be liable for rescue costs that can run into the thousands.

ABOUT TOWN

Confusing as it may seem, Sun Valley Ski Resort is actually in Ketchum. Dollar Mountain and the Sun Valley Lodge are 1 mile east of Ketchum. Ketchum is the old town founded by miners in the 1880's while Sun Valley was created as a resort in the late 1920's for wealthy socialites and film stars. To get a flavor for Sun Valley walk through the Sun Valley Lodge's photo lined hallways. With pictures of Marilyn Monroe, Gary Cooper and Lucille Ball right up to today's stars and politicians, it's a virtual who's who of Americas rich and famous.
Ketchum is the real heart and soul of Sun Valley. It's where Bruce Willis, Demi Moore, Jamie Lee Curtis, Arnold Schwartzenegger and Tom Hanks drink coffee and hang out, and where Earnest Hemingway played and gambled. His granddaughter Muriel carries the family into the snowboard scene. She rides daily, hangs out and takes yoga classes for snowboarders.
The town is pretty laid back and it has a real down home feel. The stars hang out in town and get treated like locals. The snowboard scene is more about riding with friends than who can spin the most, so don't be afraid to hook up with a local who can show you what's what. There's always someone going up from the Board Bin so stop by for hints and info.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are three different areas to stay in; Sun Valley, Ketchum or Elkhorn. If you're a literature fan, the Ketchum Korral was an old Hemingway and Ezra Pound haunt. Rooms start at $58.00 per night - Tel: 1-208-726-3510. The Ski View Lodge is in the $40-$60 range and is close to everything - Tel: 1-208-726-3441. Packages start at $233.00 for three nights lodging and a two day lift pass. Call Central Reservations - Tel: 1-208-726-5163 or 1-800-462-8646.

FOOD

Desperados across from the Board Bin serves well priced Mexican food and cheap and bottomless soft drinks. Try the fish burrito special or the vegetarian zucchini burrito.
Globus Noodle and China Pepper both serve good Asian dishes, but are a tad pricey. The best sushi in town can be found at Sushi on Second. Hana Sushi sometimes offers early bird specials.
The Panda has tasty Chinese food for reasonable prices and a hot & sour soup that can cure cancer, well at least a cold.
Rico's and Bob Dogs both have good pizza for not much dough.
Try Johnny G's Sub Shack for extra super fine grinds.
Java on 4th, where the scene gets coffee and muffins, open till 10pm.
For good steaks and seafood, the Pioneer Saloon is consistently great, but be prepared to wait for a table. If your wallet is feeling extra chubby, the Blue Room, Il Naso and Chandlers are three fine restaurants well worth the extra cash.
- all in Ketchum

NIGHTLIFE

Ketchum wails. "Uptown" is where locals usually end up after drinking big cheap beers, eating burgers and playing pool at Grumpy's or Lefty's. All Roads eventually lead to the Casino where you can score big, cheap drinks from the town's busiest, friendliest bartenders. Whiskey Jacques is another of Ketchum's hard drinking establishments.
Trash Disco on Thursdays, live bands on the weekends and apres-ski events make the Roosevelt Tavern a fun experience.
The Cellar, is Ketchum's newest bee-bar with pool table and shuffleboard.
Just remember nothing good ever happens after 2 am, and always add 2 hours to any mountain appointments made after midnight.
For a mellower night or a bit more romantic eve, the Sawtooth Club has a full bar, tables with backgammon boards and couches by the fire.